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headpiece.JPG

Two-way truss rods

Box inset: [SS only} Truss Rods, pp.??

Barrel-bolt fastener

BOX INSET: Notes on the barrel-bolt neck-fastening system, pp.??

Classical guitar tuning machine drilling jigs

Referred from PROCEDURE - Drilling Tuning Machine Holes for the Classical Headpiece (or steel string slotted headpiece)

Two-way truss rods

Truss rods
Box inset: [SS only} Truss Rods

Barrel-bolt fastener

Barrel bolts

BOX INSET: Notes on the barrel-bolt neck-fastening system, pp.??

  • These connectors are sometimes referred to as knock-down, or KD Connectors, but there seems to be a lack of uniformity across the industry regarding their nomenclature.

  • They consist of two parts, a bolt and a barrel. The barrel portion is variously termed barrel nut, cross-dowel barrel bolt, barrel-bolt dowel, connector bolt, cross-nut bolt, etc.

  • The bolt or screw portion is variously termed connector bolt, connector screw, Allen furniture bolt, etc.

  • What's important is that the screw portion is brass plated has a large flange head with an internal hex (Allen) drive hole; a partially threaded

  • that is actually shown being installed in the book can be sourced Choose this 50mm bolt. Choose this 20mm "cross-dowel nut".

  • ​

  • A similar fastener....

Tuning Machines

  • Notes on how to ascertain tuning machine quality here.

  • A similar fastener....

Classical guitar tuning machine roller drilling jigs

Referred from PROCEDURE - Drilling Tuning Machine Holes for the Classical Headpiece (or steel string slotted headpiece)

  • It is imperative that the holes drilled for the cylindrical string rollers be of the correct size, depth and separation to fit the standard 10mm rollers and roller spacings of your 3-on-a-plate classical tuning machines.

  • It is likewise imperative that the roller holes be drilled precisely perpendicular to the sides of the shaped headpiece and be parallel to each other. 

  • If they are not, difficult and uneven operation, and premature wear of the tuning machinery will certainly result. This is because if the spacing and orientation of the drill centers of all the holes don't precisely match the spacing and orientation the roller centers, when the tuner plates are screwed down to the headpiece sides, the rollers will be forced away from their machined position on their plates, jamming the rollers into their holes and the attached cog gears into their mating worm gears.

  • THUS, you should have no choice but to use a drilling jig (or guide) for this procedure. Do not attempt to perform this drilling step without one.

  • If you're making yourself one guitar, you can get away with making your own guide: a piece of well-squared piece of scrap hardwood carefully drilled on a drill press with three holes with their centers spaced precisely matching the separation of the roller centers of your tuning machines. 

  • The drilled guide should be precisely the same width as your headpiece edge, and long enough to provide space for clamping the guide into position before use.

  • This is a temporary solution. If you try to use it more than once or twice, it will soon wear out and your drilling will become less precise. If you intend to make guitars in any greater quantity you need to purchase a guide. These are available in a variety of cost and quality levels.

  • You can view our commercial drill guide recommendations HERE.

  • If you want to increase the precision of your results, you should be aware of the differences between the stated size of comercial drill bits and the actual size of the hole they make. Find a discussion of drill-hole size precision HERE

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