
an online portal for guitarmakers, guitar enthusiasts, and students
following Natelson & Cumpiano's treatise, GUITARMAKING: Tradition & Technology

Reader's questions
Questions readers have asked us over the years
Do classical guitars need adjustable truss rods?
Q: Recently, a friend drew my attention to a newsletter of yours in which my guitars had been referred to. I thought I would write a quick note to give my opinion of the question about classical truss rods. You refer to the inclusion of truss rods in classical guitars as "silly". I started using them for several reasons.
Firstly, I've seen and repaired many classicals with far too much relief after a few years of string tension so they DO BEND! Secondly, humidity plays as important a role in neck straightness as string tension. The ebony, being unfinished, absorbs moisture and dries out when the seasonal humidity changes and bends the neck back and fourth. In low humidity, the action will be higher as the fret board shrinks and the neck bends forward, in high humidity the fret board swells and the action will be lower.
Pre loading a neck with the truss rod and planing it straight before fretting will stabilize it. Thirdly, a truss rod stiffens the neck, and as the neck absorbs half of the energy of the vibrating string and transfers high frequencies back into the mix of sound in an instrument, this has a very marked difference in the tone.
A: I disagree with your hypothesis that the fingerboard's swelling and shrinking causes the neck to back- or forward-bow. The course I audited with Professor Bruce Hoadley, a Wood Science and Technology Professor at the University of Massachusetts Department of Wood Technology, taught me that wood expands and contracts perpendicular to the grain direction, not longitudinally with it.
So in response to changes in ambient humidity, the fingerboard will expand and contract in width, not in length. Thus, the explanation for what you observe doesn't seem to square with what I've learned about wood's behavior.
My experience with high or changing action on classics does not point to the neck curving forward as a result of string tension, but of other distortion elsewhere on the guitar which causes the action to rise and fall—and would not be resolved by simply tightening a truss rod (if one were there).
My initial response that characterized classic truss rods as "silly" referred to the ADJUSTABLE kind of rod. The tension arising from what essentially amounts to six strands of taut nylon fishing line (about 90 lbs. at concert pitch) seems insufficient to significantly distort a foot-long lamination of solid mahogany and ebony.
I hasten to caution that when you so readily ascribe specific acoustic effects of what you're doing as a fact, ("as the neck absorbs half of the energy of the vibrating string and transfers high frequencies back into the mix of sound in an instrument") when presumably) you're not a trained acoustician. Even an acoustician would hesitate to make this claim because they know just how complicated the system is.
So, within musical organology and instrument acoustics, there is no universal consensus that stiffening a guitar’s neck unconditionally improves its response. But if you want to believe that, go ahead.
Granted, neck stiffness can affect the instrument’s resonant profile. Because the guitar functions as a system of coupled oscillators, modifications to the neck fundamentally rearrange the physics of the entire chassis. But one luthier’s "improvement" is often another’s loss of traditional character.
Proponents of highly rigid necks—typically achieved via carbon fiber reinforcement rods, multi-laminate construction, or dense tonewoods—base their philosophy on the law of energy conservation. When a string vibrates, it transfers energy not only to the bridge but also to the neck via the nut and frets. A flexible neck yields to this movement, absorbing vibrational energy through internal damping and converting it into heat. By increasing the neck's mechanical impedance through stiffening, the structure resists this compliance. This forces a higher percentage of kinetic energy to remain within the strings and transfer directly to the soundboard, resulting in a sharper transient attack, increased sustain in the upper registers, and the mitigation of "dead spots" caused by sympathetic neck frequencies.
Conversely, a significant camp of researchers and traditional luthiers argue that an overly rigid neck robs an acoustic instrument of its organic warmth, yielding a sterile or clinical voice. Ultimately, changing neck stiffness does not inherently perfect the instrument; it merely recalculates the acoustic equation, shifting the balance between focused efficiency and compliant, coupled resonance.
Indeed, a bonafide acoustician would be far more hesitant to explain ANY acoustic phenomena on a guitar as easily as you apparently can. Don't take it personally--it's a quirk of the profession: luthiers readily and regularly do just that. I've learned just enough about guitar acoustics from Tim White, editor of the Journal of Guitar Acoustics, to be very cautious about spreading notions about acoustic phenomena around, as if they were fact: there is very little known for certain about how guitars work and the energy interactions within them. Guitars are enormously complex energy transforming devices. Very little is known for certain, and much of what you read about guitar acoustics in the guitarmaking media is just...made up.
SS: Gluing down the fingerboard end
Q: Just a quick question. Do you use any glue under the fret board above the sound hole when bolting the neck to the body [when using the recommended hardware neck-joint]?
A: If you’ve worked precisely enough, and the upper face brace arch correctly anticipates the fingerboard-end rise over the soundboard, the end of the fingerboard won’t “float” at all. You can actually assemble, string up, and play the guitar without any glue at all. But not for long.
Indeed, you’ll be served the hard lesson I had to learn: come back in a couple of weeks, and the guitar will almost certainly require a neck reset!! String tension on the neck will slowly cause the headblock that it’s attached to slowly yield—as the soundboard bulges without the stiffening reinforcement provided by the fingerboard-end glue joint.
The integrity of the guitar’s neck angle and its geometric integrity will thus be seriously compromised. This is because wood is elastic: it will bend away from straight under load, like very stiff rubber—until the load is removed, it will return to its original straightness as long as the load is exerted momentarily. But under persistent load, its fibers will slowly elongate (or compress), undergoing what’s called plastic deformation. This means that it will not return to its original configuration, but to somewhere in-between. So you’ll learn, as I did, how important that particular glue seam is to the stability of the guitar’s neck angle.
What I do however, is glue the fingerboard end down to the soundboard using a different glue, PVA (polyvinyl acetate or "white" glue) rather than the glue I use for the rest of the guitar (aliphatic resin or "yellow" glue). PVA is similarly strong as AR, but releases at a significantly lower temperature (120 ºF ( ) rather than 150 ºF
SS: Diving fingerboard end
Q: I set & glued the neck on my first guitar today, and ended up with a kink in the fretboard and my question is as follows: If I start out with the heel square to the fretboard, then the fretboard starts parallel to the soundboard. The thickness of the fretboard at its highest is 1/4" (7/32" billet thickness at centerline + 1/32" approx fret height = 1/4").
With the fretboard parallel to the soundboard, the airspace between the soundboard and the line of the fretboard at the bridge (neglecting the effects of the domed soundboard, which in this case seems to have a neglible effect) would therefore be 1/4".
You suggest an airspace of 25/64"-7/16". For the sake of this inquiry, lets go for 13/32". So in order to increase the airspace 5/32", we need to back-set the neck slightly. The neck will rotate around the neck body junction at the 14th fret, slightly behind the center of the scale, causing the nut to be offset slightly more than 5/32" below its original position. So now the whole fretboard is rotated slightly away from the plane of the soundboard, causing the end of the fretboard to lift off the soundboard.
The problem comes when I must glue the fretboard to the soundboard: The fretboard up to the 14th fret is back-set from the soundboard, but the fretboard from the 14th fret upwards must be parallel to the soundboard, causing a kink in the fretboard at the 14th fret where these two different planes intersect.
Did I do something wrong? Is this supposed to be the case? It seems to me that this situation presents no problem to the first fourteen frets, where the strings are practically parallel to the fretboard, but beyond that, the increasing action would cause progressive pitch distortion. Is it perhaps a negligible effect? Or is something wrong with my procedure? Please help to clear my confusion.
A: To have the fretboard "dive" where it meets the soundbox would be a serious flaw in a good guitar. Keeping the fretboard continuous and level from beginning to end is a sign of expert skill in this business. A diving fingerboard-end makes playing in the highest regions of the fingerboard difficult, if not impossible.
Remember, steel-string guitars necks ordinarily must be set back relative to the body (i.e., towards the player), which in turn pivots the fingerboard's wide end upwards over the soundboard by a small amount. In anticipation, the upper face brace must be arched—sufficiently to just raise the soundboard to meet the fingerboard under it.
If it was arched insufficiently, the fingerboard end has to be pushed down to meet the too-flat soundboard: and the fretboard-end takes a dive. Try a greater upper transversal arch next time (as a patch on your existing guitar, adhere a fine wedge of matching fingerboard material under the fingerboard end to support it in a straight-to-the-end configuration--when finished, the fingerboard end may imperceptibly seem to swell slightly in thickness).
The converse situation is disastrous: if the upper transversal's arch is too great, the fretboard-end will be obligated to rise, creating a condition of mayhem with all the notes near the body-joint. You must then remove the upper frets, plane the fingerboard-end back to straight, and re-fret. But now your fingerboard-end will look screwy.
Only experience will guide you in anticipating what the proper upper transversal's arch should be. In my experience, the arch should be 1/16-inch for a 15-inch guitar, and 3/32-inches for a jumbo guitar.
But all this precision is for naught if, when you glue the back onto the guitar, and you don't take great care to keep the headblock rigid during the gluing procedure: if it is carelessly allowed to randomly rotate in either direction, its going to drag a bulge or hollow on the soundboard precisely where the fingerboard end is going to lie, or will randomizing the position of the fingerboard end when the neck is attached to the soundbox. This, by the way, can be an issue when building the soundbox without a elaborate mold, like we teach in GT&T.
Since writing the book in 1985, I've improved my headblock fixturing technique in this regard by devising an extension to the workboard shoe (the bolted-down wooden bar that clamps the soundboard to the workboard through the soundhole). The extension can actually be screwed to the interior back wall of the headblock, keeping it affixed in place during the back-gluing, but removable afterwards. This is the technique we explain in our new, revised 2026 edition of GT&T.